By: Henry Sarria

July 2007

A wise person once told me that the right tool for the right job keeps you from smashing your head against the wall out of frustration. Proper tools and good mechanics are what keep our bikes in running order. Ask motocross champ, Jeremy McGrath or NASCAR driver, Mark Martin what gives them an edge and I bet they say their pit mechanic and his tools. A lot of it is common sense, but everybody can use a little refresher. So what does a BMX racer need in their toolbox for that extra edge? Well, here’s a list of basic and specialty tools. A basic tool is one you can buy at any hardware store. FIND Specialty tools at bike shops or that amazing thing called the internet.

Read, learn, and most importantly, enjoy.

Basic tools

Wrenches / necessary

The best wrenches to have in the toolbox are open/box end, both a 15mm and a 17mm. These will do the trick for axle nuts, pedals, and cones (for entry-level bikes without sealed bearings) or inside nuts on a hub. Other wrenches to have available are a 1” open/box end for freewheel removal, and a 10mm open/box end for the adjustment nut on chain tensioners. One last set of wrenches to lug is a 6”, 10” and maybe even a 12”adjustable (crescent) wrench. However, don’t get too reliant on them, just have them as a plan B. A basic wrench rule: It is always better (whenever possible) to use the box end of a wrench than the open end. This prevents possible slippage.

Hex keys / necessary

Some people call them “Allens”, while others call them hex. These will cover the majority of fastening systems on your bike. The most important sizes to keep are 4, 5, 6 and 8mm, but I personally have a set that ranges from 1.5 to  10mm. At this point, it should be said that some components made in the USA aren’t metric. They’re SAE, and that’s why you’ll also find a SAE hex set in my toolbox. There’s “Y” wrench sets they make with the 4, 5 and 6mm tips, but I find these kind of cumbersome to work with. Hey, to each their own, right?

Screwdrivers / necessary

The best deal going is what’s called a “4-in-1” set. This is a screwdriver with a reversible shaft and a bit at each end. Each bit has a small and a large tip, one bit is Phillips, the other slotted. Also, there are ratchet screwdrivers available, but I sometimes find that the best deal is just an old-fashioned, one-piece screwdriver. A last note on screwdrivers: Make sure that the screwdriver head you’re using fills at least 75% of the screw head, but doesn’t exceed the 100% point. This will avoid stripping on the screw head.

Pliers / necessary

Sometimes you just want to get a little grip on something and these do the job quite well. They’re also great for pinching brake cable ends on. Don’t use them as a wrench because they will strip your axle nuts. If you do use them as a clamp on a threaded item such as an axle (something I don’t recommend, but sometimes needs to be done) be sure to use a rag as a buffer to avoid tearing the thread apart. I also keep a set of vice grips for similar purposes. The advantage with the vice grips is that they’re adjustable, they lock in place, and come in many styles.

Wire cutters / necessary

How else are you going to cut that brake cable? They sell cable cutters at bike shops, but wire cutters are useful for more than just cutting cable.

Sockets / optional

This one is for you dads (or moms, whoever runs your pit) of the dinky dudes that use MTB aluminum cranks. The bolt that holds those cranks in place is a 14mm and you should have that socket in the toolbox along with a ratchet. The best is with a 3/8” drive, but a 1/4” drive will work too.

Pipe cutter / optional

A common plumbing tool, this little beauty is used for cutting the excess steer tube off forks. Just make sure not to cut too much because it won’t grow back. These are also good for cutting handlebars down.

Ball peen hammer / optional

Sometimes you just have to give something a nice whack, and a ball peen hammer is the best tool for this job. I usually pack a 10 or 12 oz. hammer. I also pack a plastic mallet.

Chisel / optional

Used with the ball peen hammer. I use this for limited duties where force is needed. My weapon of choice is a flat, round tip.

A piece of 2” pipe, 20” long / optional

Not to be used for whacking people across the knees (this isn’t ice skating). This is to be used as a “cheater bar” for prying things loose. Good for freewheel removal, granted you can get the end of the 1” open/box end wrench into the pipe. This may take some creative thinking.

Specialty tools

Air pump / necessary

Tires need air and this is how you get it in there. There are many models, but I personally have a pump with a gauge so that I know exactly how much of it I’m sticking in there.

Chain breaker / necessary

This is one of the specialty tools you need to have when replacing a worn or broken chain. The only trick to this tool is to know how to use it because if you don’t, you’ll break it and waste your hard earned cash. I know, I’ve had inexperienced know-it-alls ruin mine to the point of where I don’t loan it out anymore.

Freewheel tool / necessary

This is another specialty tool, but only needed if you run a freewheel hub, not a cog. It is a 2 or 4-pronged device that fits inside the freewheel center. This is where the 1” open/box end wrench comes in handy. The 2-prong tool is for 14 and 15-toothed freewheels while the 4-prong one is for freewheels with 16, 17 and 18 teeth. There’s also a model that’s a spanner with a 2 and 4-prong wrench at either end and eliminates the need for the 1” wrench. One more thing, a freewheel is standard right hand. That means           right = tight, left = loose.

Spoke wrench / optional

I can remember the first time I tried to true a wheel and it haunts me to this day. It is never easy to do and usually better left to the pros. However, there will come a time when you need to do a “quick true” and this wrench is the way to do it. There are different types out there, so pick the one you feel most comfy with. Remember, if your rim rubs to the right, tighten the left and vice versa.

Crank pullers / optional

This tool is for dinky dude cranks once you’ve got that 14mm bolt off. Some models require the need of a 10” crescent wrench, while

others have a built-in handle.

Bottom bracket tool / optional

For removing the non-drive side of European bottom brackets. Depending on the model, you can use a 3/8” drive ratchet or a 12” crescent wrench to turn the tool. By the way, the non-drive side is a reverse thread and this means left = tight, right = loose.

Chain ring bolt wrench / optional

If you’re using a chain ring, then you need one of these babies. It is designed to fit in the side of the chain ring bolt that sits on the other side of the hex bolt.

Tire levers / necessary

These exist for a reason: So that you don’t have to use a screwdriver to get your tire off your rim because a screwdriver will pop your tube. The best ones are made out of plastic so that they can’t pinch your tube. They also have a little “clip” end that hooks onto your spokes, thus freeing up your hands to use the levers effectively.

Cone wrenches / optional

These do the same job of the 15 and 17mm open/box end wrenches, but fit into tighter spaces than a regular wrench does. This means you can tighten cones with both wrenches next to each other without any interference from the other.

So that’s all the tools you need and some to think about. Keep in mind that you should never have to use the tools a lot. If you do, there’s something wrong with your trusty ride, or your mechanic. it is always good to know you’re well equipped just in case something does go wrong. So that’s all there is to it.

Good luck and happy tooling!

8 RULES FOR YOUR TOOLS

1 Keep your tools clean. There’s nothing worse than reaching into a toolbox only to pull up a handful of gunk!

2 Keep an eye on your tools. They may be inanimate, but they have a tendency to “walk away”. usually with the help of someone other than you. As a general rule, if anyone wants to borrow a tool, I tell them to bring their bike to my pit.

3 Keep inexperienced people away from your tools. this is how they don’t get broken. Teach people, but learn to identify those that can learn and those that shouldn’t be near a tool.

4 Remember that every tool has a specific duty. Screwdrivers aren’t chisels or pry bars, wrenches aren’t hammers and hammers aren’t wrenches. Neither are pliers. Right tool, right job, no excuses!

5 Never use a damaged tool. it can hurt you. It is bad enough to get hurt while racing, but working on your bike?

6 Cheater bars are for loosening, not tightening. It’s all about the torque!

7 No such thing as a stupid question. How better to learn? If you don’t ask questions you’ll always be running into the wall and this gets tiring after a while.

8 Always make a plan. Do this before getting in over your head, it’ll save you a lot of time.